Guerrero Negro – the Black Warrior – is supposed to be an armpit of a town with about as much charm and grace as a typical hairy ole pit. Its main claim to fame is that whales come every year to have their babies in the nearby waters.
While that is intensely cool, it’s only for a few months. After that, it’s all about the Pemex gas station, the ATM machine and the supermarket for filling up before you cross the desert.
But, well. We like the place. We think it’s worth going to even if you miss the whales (like we did, both the last time we came and this time), if only for the people, because we LOVED the people!
The People of Guerrero Negro, Baja
Meet Tony, from “Mariscos Tony,” right on the main drag. He said he remembered us from 2 years ago; who knows? But we sure remembered him. He’s like a Japanese Yakitoriya-san, or like an Irish bartender – one of those charming, hilarious, friendly types that makes you feel great.
Plus, he knows his way around the kitchen
Tony told us the salt mine was cool – and we went there the next day, after eating some Adobada.
(Note: if you don’t go to Guerrero Negro for the people, then go for the FOOD, because it’s incredibly delicious and CHEAP.)
The Salt Mines of Guerrero Negro
So there we were, just driving along, trying to find the salt mines and there you go, we wandered right in
It was gorgeous. We felt like good parents for a few minutes because we (okay, MIKEY) got to talk to Micah about salt, the element, and take a hunk of salt crystals right then and there.
A little further up the road and all of the sudden there were these guys, like security guards, calling us over. We stopped. They wanted us to be sure to check out the BIG HUNK of salt and the froth made by salt washing
They were so nice, the type of people that make a place special. They invited us to come back the next day for a tour with them but bummer, it didn’t work out. We really, really liked them.
Moving on, we got some propane gas in Guerrero Negro too. The kids and I waited in the truck while he went in, and even there, people were so nice. Really, really nice. This one lady who looked like the Mexican incarnation of the Barefoot Contessa stopped by the truck to tell us to have happy and safe travels. The people in the truck next to us were smiling and saying hi.
Guerrero Negro = Nice People
Everyone seems to love Loreto but us. We just…don’t. First of all, the people that we met there were not as nice as they were in other places. Second, there are a TON of foreigners there. Third, we are charged foreigner prices for everything, so come on, what’s fun about that?
We stayed in the RV park in town. At $16/night, it was the cheapest accommodation we could find
They really packed ’em in here. Sardines a’la Loreto.
As far as I’m concerned, watching our kids play was the best thing about Loreto.
A bike shop. Mikey got all misty-eyed, missing his job
Then we happily headed out, making a bee-line for Ciudad Constitucion. Gorgeous scenery, by the way.
We visited Constitucion a couple of years ago and really liked it. It was just this simple big town on the verge of something more. Happy people. Good food.
We found that not much had changed except that the city has grown bigger. It’s unquestionably developed more. Speaking of developed, this made me laugh:
I didn’t take many photos there. We were just walking around and enjoying the people, more Adobada ( do we ever stop??), fun ice cream flavours. We found a night market and wandered around, our pug was a total hit.
We really like Ciudad Constitucion. It’s supposed to be some kind of pit stop, but we found it, along with Guerrero Negro, to be both charming and worth getting to know. Most of all for the people, lovely, wonderful, friendly people.
Where We Stayed:
Guerrero Negro: We stayed at Las Dunas – 245 pesos a night, great wifi access, excellent shower. Next to the supermarket, not far from the Lavamatica (laundry). Accessible but for the step to get into the manager’s office.
Loreto: Rivera del Mar RV Park. $16/night. Very clean, wonderful showers. Weak or nonexistent wifi, tons of people who looked angry all the time. The RV park itself had a stair to get into the bathroom, a stair to access the common area, but that was it. Other than that, totally flat. On-site washing machines, $1.50/load. Extensive lending library, if you dig Dean Kootz, romance books or can read German.
Ciudad Constitucion: Posada del Sol. 400 pesos/night. This was by far the nicest place we have stayed in so far – and the most expensive. Clean, new rooms, cable tv, air conditioning, strong wifi. Very comfortable and yes, accessible.